I’m sorry to say that we are still in Namche. Despite the industrial sized drugs and the doctor’s assurance that Beccy should be ready to roll the next day, she woke up this morning feeling pretty ropey – still some fever, coughing and generally knackered. To be honest whatever sized horse pill you have, it’s a bit ambitious to expect to trek after one days treatment. Where does this leave us? Well it leaves Beccy in bed for another day.
which the Lonely Planet describes as “possible for the fit and well acclimatized as a return trip in one day, but a long and grueling one”. What do they know?
Despite leaving late at around 9am (trekking tends to start early, as you have to work with daylight hours and as I type at 5:30 it is getting dark) I still managed there and back by 14:30, so yah-boo to the Lonely Planet – I may be acclimatized but no-one would describe me as fit.
Actually it was reasonably hard work, but well worth it for the views. and the Thame Gompa (monastery) sits nestled on a mountain side in a way that only buddhist ones seem to manage with any authority (bottom right)
On the way back I re-acquainted myself with a certain biscuit that any trekking visitor to Nepal would be familiar with – a fantastic quick fuel hit, and enough to get me back to Namche, but not without encountering some belligerent Yaks – a continual problem on the trail
So where does this leave us in terms of our itinerary?
Realistically, if Beccy is not well enough to trek upwards tomorrow, we will not make it to Everest base camp. We have no contingency left.
If she feels better, but not great, we may have enough time to wait another day and try an alternate trek to Gokyo – which I would be quite like to do. You still get a great view of Everest from Gokyo Ri
– arguably better than at Kala Pattar (the traditional viewpoint near base camp).
If she is still no better, then I will be taking the executive decision to go down to Phakding, 600m lower. Despite being told it is a chest infection and not altitude by the doctor, the dry cold air at altitude is doing it no favours. I’d rather have a pissed off friend than one who catches pneumonia.
What would we do then? We can always come back up and go some way to see the views, or as a radical alternative turn our tails and go in the opposite direction – there still is enough time to trek out all the way back to the road and get the bus, rather than fly back to Kathmandu.
As for the film, I already have plan. I was looking for a story to lay over the photos, looks like it is going to be a disaster movie – or at least a comedy of errors.
As a ‘by the way’, the last two posts have been somewhat challenging to get up, as the electricity in Namche is not exactly 24/7. There was a 30 minute break between the last sentence and the one before, and the both have taken at least three goes to get done. Oh well, time to get some ‘Everest Whisky’ to drown my woes. It’s meths-tastic.